It's not often I dine at the same restaurant twice in one day but after having lunch with a friend at the popular new downtown Bellingham restaurant Du Jour Bistro, I had to return in the evening for a bowl of the pear parsnip soup my luncheon companion had ordered. Sadly, the pear soup was all finished for the day when I arrived for dinner, but in its place was a savory lemon sage, pork and potato potage-a complex melange of lemon and sage, tender roasted pork and potatoes in a rich gravy. Heavenly. It was unusual and different, yet comfortingly familiar in its blend of flavors. My dinner partner and I ordered an antipasto dish filled with a generous assortment of fennel-wrapped prosciutto, salami, marinated vegetables, feta, Greek olives, smoked salmon crostini and toasted almonds. We then settled in with our wine, a nice chardonnay and a Domaine du Couron merlot from France. Since the bistro's tables are interspersed with racks of intriguing wine selections, courtesy of The Vines wine shop, we could also have chosen a special bottle and had it opened for a $5 corking fee. At lunch, I'd been greatly impressed by the polenta with mushroom, garlic, and sun-dried tomato ragout I'd ordered. Topped with melted chevré, it made a memorable mid-day meal. For dinner, I chose lamb fettuccine with zucchini, leeks and mushrooms. The lamb was sauced in red wine and stock simmered with thyme and rosemary, and the whole dish was topped with feta cheese. At Du Jour, the menu changes frequently-sometimes a couple of times a day-so the offerings are written on a chalkboard at the entrance. The innovative entrees can include beef tenderloin with a port-mission fig demiglaze, Alaskan king salmon with a raspberry-dry rosé sauce, or rabbit with fettucine in a wine, spinach, roasted red pepper and mushroom sauce. For dessert we shared the most delectable, elegant chocolate cake confection-milk and dark chocolate cake topped with chocolate mousse then wrapped in a layer of dark chocolate and crowned with a brandied cherry. It could only have been created by the Belgian pastry artist, Olivier Vrambout, owner of the Mount Bakery (Northwest Events, Late Spring 2001). Indeed, most desserts at Du Jour are supplied by the Mount Bakery, which should be an inspiration to save room. Co-0wners Mike Petersen and Becky Lawson are veterans in the local restaurant industry The couple, who are mates as well as business partners, had been searching for a restaurant venue without success and so decided to open an wine shop while waiting. Customers liked The Vines and encouraged them to do a restaurant in the same space. "Both work well together," says Becky. "It came together serendipitously." Customers can browse through the wine shop, select a bottle or two for the meal and others to take home or as gifts. "It allows our diners to try different wines without paying the mark-up charged by most restaurants," she comments. Plus it creates a nice ambiance. At Du Jour, the emphasis is on fresh, quality, organic produce used in innovative, creative-and yet classic-ways. It's in the family of Northwest cuisines inspired a quarter of a century ago by Alice Waters at Berkeley's Chez Panisse but expanded upon greatly with the abundance of local produce, shellfish, fish and meats available here. In Whatcom, Skagit and Island counties, particularly, the convergence of agricultural and fishing communities with creative, innovative and classically inclined chefs has resulted in a number of small restaurants such as Du Jour that continue to stimulate and please fortunate diners. Call to ask about today's menu or when a favorite soup is being offered Price are moderate around $8 for luncheon entrees; $13 to $20 for dinner Entrees.